Things to Do in Zurich

Zurich's Altstadt splits across the Limmat: Niederdorf's narrow lanes on one bank, Bahnhofstrasse's banks and boutiques on the other. The Grossmünster's twin towers are climbable for CHF 5, with a decent view over the rooftops without the queues at the Fraumünster's Chagall windows. Zurich West, the old industrial quarter around Viadukt and Escher-Wyss, has more genuinely interesting bars and food than the postcard old town. Walk or ferry along the lake as far as the open-air baths (Seebad Enge, Seebad Utoquai) if the weather holds. Uetliberg is the easiest hill view: 25 minutes by train (S10) from Hauptbahnhof, then a half-hour ridge walk with the Alps on the horizon on a clear day. Budget for the fact that a coffee and a beer here cost roughly double what they do in most of Europe.